Recap: HERON PRESTON - PUBLIC FIGURE - FW18 - PARIS MEN’S FASHION WEEK
"PUBLIC FIGURE"
Heron Preston's third womenswear and menswear collection for his eponymous brand. The collection, titled "Public Figure," is an aesthetic riff on influencer culture and self-declared celebrity and debuts new categories for the designer including luxury handbags, footwear, and eyewear. Preston showed a collaboration with Carhartt WIP in addition to a collection with NASA that utilizes The National Aeronautics and Space Administration agency's authentic 1975 logo, consisting of the word "NASA" in a unique type style that was nicknamed the "worm." The NASA "worm" logo, originally discontinued in 1992, is resurrected with Preston's FW18 collection in commemorating NASA's 60th Anniversary. NASA will celebrate its 60th anniversary on Oct. 1, 2018, as Preston's Fall/Winter 2018 collection lands in stores.
Designer Heron Preston showed his third
womenswear and menswear collection for his eponymous brand, titled “Public
Figure,” an aesthetic riff on influencer culture and self-declared celebrity.
For inspiration, Preston decided to play with observations of his surroundings
on the “influencer jet stream,” a term for the highly attended cultural churn
of annual events, from Art Basel in Miami to global fashion weeks (one can find
a list of such events printed on a shirt in the collection under a sparkling
crystal globe). In our current culture, “Public Figure” is a title one can
select for oneself on Instagram, and the patterns and proclamations of these
“Public Figures” are present in the details of Preston’s Fall/Winter 2018
collection.
Graphics in the new collection bestow pseudo-titles like
“Influencer” and “Public Figure”, a playful take on the intensely curated self-display
that we see en masse on social media, meant to be worn and made visible in
meta-context. The labels appear across the front of camouflage pants—with a new
take on the print that focuses on leaves with rich colors—as well as on denim
jackets and polos. “If you buy a polo from Heron Preston you are an
influencer,” the designer jokes. “Who is to argue that?”
Bella Hadid,
wearing Heron Preston Fall/Winter 2018, attends
the Heron Preston FW18 Presentation during Paris Fashion Week
Men's in Paris, France.
For this season, Preston merges his covetable workwear
aesthetic with new luxury materials, introducing a range of new accessories,
including handbags, footwear, and eyewear. The first Heron Preston handbag, The
Canal Bag, is a dual flap shoulder bag with snakeskin and calf-hair, designed
with two pockets and a bright orange Heron Preston branded strap and
complemented by the brand’s eye-catching orange pull tab with “Pull”
instruction playfully printed on it. A construction inspired thick sole boot
comes in snakeskin, black and camouflage printed leather, with the “Style” logo
printed in red. The collection also introduces sunglasses, with tortoiseshell
and rose, black, and red and orange colorways with branding on the frame,
inspired by glasses Preston was gifted (as an influencer, naturally) and wore
himself. All branding, from the silver embossed Made In Italy to the
signature orange label and serial numbers appear on the outside of accessories
in the collection.
Womenswear offerings continue to evolve in this collection,
which includes a snakeskin leather dress, crushed velvet bodysuits, and for the
first time, women’s suiting, with a two-tone oversize blazer and skirt. Preston
also worked with luxury shearling and faux fur for the first time, letting
elevated materials have a playful dialogue with his workwear influence. A
crystal application of the “СТИЛЬ” logo updates Preston’s signature for
Fall/Winter 2018.
Fall/Winter 2018 also marks the debut of Heron Preston’s
NASA collection, an idea the designer teased in December 2013 when he appeared
in a Styles Section piece in the New York Times under the headline, The Street
Wear Designer Heron Preston Has His Eyes on NASA. This season, which coincides
with the space agency’s 60th anniversary, Preston’s self-declared dream
collaboration will be a reality.
The Heron Preston NASA capsule is a NASA-inspired collection
that taps on the agency’s authentic 1975 logo, which consists of the word
"NASA" in a unique type style, nicknamed the "worm." The
NASA “worm” logo, originally discontinued in 1992, is resurrected with
Preston’s FW18 collection. Inspired by the outer layer of Extravehicular
Mobility Units, or spacesuits, Preston interprets the iconic uniform in the
form of a 3M nylon space jacket, a silver denim logo jacket, and a
multifunctional convertible backpack (which can also be worn as a fanny pack or
tote bag). The collection is branded with “fall/winter 1990” as an homage to
the former logo.
Rounding off the Fall/Winter 2018 collection, Heron Preston
introduces a new collaboration with Carhartt WIP. Early in his career, Preston
re-worked and styled vintage Carhartt WIP jackets for his website, and the
brand’s iconic canvas workwear remains essential to the Heron Preston DNA. This
new collection will combine the classic canvas with Preston’s crystal “СТИЛЬ”
logo, a high fashion stamp on utilitarian garments.
The collaboration includes a fanny pack, beanie, jacket,
vest and pants, all treated and paint splattered for a deep wear look, and
accented with Heron Preston’s signature orange trim. The treatment marks
Preston’s reverence to workwear as functional protective layers, capturing a
moment in the clothing’s life that makes it striking.
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